A man’s hair has always been a significant marker of identity, historically signifying class, wealth, and masculinity. While the specific styles have evolved over centuries, the fundamental role of hair in defining a man’s presence remains remarkably consistent. The enduring appeal of certain haircuts lies in their ability to transcend fleeting trends, offering timeless style that continues to flatter modern individuals. This exploration delves into iconic men’s hairstyles that have demonstrated remarkable longevity, drawing inspiration from historical figures and cultural touchstones.
Alexander the Great’s Shaggy Yet Stylish Mane
The legendary military leader, Alexander the Great, epitomized a practical yet impactful hairstyle that continues to resonate today. Faced with the immense responsibilities of empire-building, personal grooming was likely a secondary concern. His solution was a tousled, shaggy look, particularly well-suited for those with naturally curly hair. This style, characterized by its effortless texture, requires minimal fuss while maintaining a distinguished appearance.
Master barber Alex Glover of Murdock advises that this hairstyle is best worn pushed away from the face and tucked behind the ears, allowing the hair’s natural growth pattern to frame the wearer’s features. In contemporary times, the availability of advanced styling products allows for the enhancement of this natural texture. The application of sea salt spray during drying can accentuate curls, followed by a matte clay or putty for hold and definition. However, the suitability of this style is contingent on the wearer’s environment. For those in formal corporate settings, the inherent texture might be perceived as untidy. It aligns best with more relaxed dress codes, such as those involving neatly cut raw denim. To maintain the intended aesthetic, Alexander the Great’s clean-shaven countenance is often replicated, as the presence of a beard or significant facial hair can detract from the overall intended untamed yet stylish appearance.
Brad Pitt’s Enduring Buzz Cut
The early 2000s, often referred to as the "noughties," witnessed a period of regrettable men’s hair trends, including overly slicked fringes and frosted tips. However, amidst these fleeting fads, a more enduring style emerged: the buzz cut. Joe Mills, owner of Joe & Co barbershop in Soho, highlights the resurgence of military-inspired haircuts, with the buzz cut, as exemplified by actor Brad Pitt around 2005, serving as a modern classic.
The buzz cut has gained traction on catwalks and in street style, offering a refreshing alternative to the ubiquitous "short back and sides" that dominated previous years. Named for the sound of the clippers used to achieve it, this hairstyle can be a DIY project for those seeking uniform length. However, for individuals looking to conceal scars or prominent occipital bones, professional execution by a barber is recommended. The simplicity and clean lines of the buzz cut lend themselves to a sharp, no-nonsense aesthetic that remains perpetually stylish.
JFK’s Polished Ivy League Cut
While gravity-defying pompadours and elaborate sideburns may characterize certain eras, the 1950s saw the rise of a more understated yet influential style: the Ivy League. Also known as the Harvard Clip or Princeton, this preppy staple is essentially a slightly longer iteration of the military crew cut. Popularized by President John F. Kennedy, the added length on top provides greater versatility for styling, traditionally in a neat side parting. Contemporary interpretations of this style can be seen in the shorter, refined looks sported by actors like Daniel Craig and Ryan Gosling.
The historical context of the Ivy League cut is rooted in the academic policies of elite universities in the 1950s and early 1960s, which dictated student hairstyles. This trend subsequently permeated American culture, becoming a standard offering in barbershops across the nation. To achieve this look today, barbers typically use a mid-length clipper guard (e.g., a grade five) on the back and sides, blending downwards to shorter lengths towards the nape. The top is then carefully trimmed with scissors to maintain a neat appearance. Styling involves a medium-hold product that provides a subtle shine.
David Beckham’s Textured Falling Quiff
Arguably one of David Beckham’s most iconic hairstyles, the textured falling quiff represents a masterful blend of contemporary style and timeless appeal. This look eschews the sharp precision of a typical fade, emphasizing a softer, more textured finish achieved through meticulous scissor work. Tucker, a renowned stylist, emphasizes that clippers are generally not recommended for the back and sides of this style; instead, scissors are used to create a more nuanced texture and a less stark contrast.
The styling process involves combining a paste and pomade, rubbed together in the hands to create a workable blend. This mixture is then applied to towel-dried hair, often with a hint of sea salt spray for added texture. The hair is then raked backward and scrunched to achieve the characteristic "falling strand" effect. This somewhat floppy style is best suited for individuals with medium to thick hair that possesses a slight natural wave. Its effectiveness is also tied to its context; it is ideal for occasions where the wearer is not engaged in strenuous physical activity, as excessive movement can cause the volume to collapse.
River Phoenix’s Embracing of Long, Textured Hair
The 1970s marked a significant shift in men’s hairstyles, moving away from the shorter, more conventional cuts of previous decades towards longer, more expressive styles. While the decade is often remembered for its distinct fashion trends like bell-bottoms and the rise of disco, it also saw men embracing longer hair for the first time in centuries. This trend continued into the 1980s, with young Hollywood stars like River Phoenix championing the look.
Mikey Pearson, director of Manifesto barbershop in Clerkenwell, notes that this era is currently a major source of inspiration in the fashion world, with brands like Gucci heavily influencing the revival of 70s aesthetics. To achieve this layered, textured long hair, barbers typically cut in long layers to add softness and ensure adaptability to various face shapes. The principle of "long hair must have long layers" is crucial for maintaining visual balance and preventing the cut from appearing disjointed. Daily care involves strengthening shampoos and conditioners to maintain hair health, while surf sprays or texturizing creams can provide volume and definition.
Jean-Michel Basquiat’s Iconic Short Dreads
Artist Jean-Michel Basquiat, whose prolific career spanned a mere nine years, left an indelible mark not only through his art but also through his distinctive hairstyle. His short dreadlocks became an iconic look, continuing to inspire afro hairstyles today, notably seen on artists like The Weeknd. However, the creation and maintenance of dreadlocks are not a quick or simple process.
Joe Mills explains that dreading hair requires significant time and dedicated effort, involving the twisting and locking of the hair. This process is best undertaken by a professional stylist experienced in this technique, as it is not a DIY endeavor. While the initial creation is intensive, the upkeep of dreadlocks is manageable at home. This typically involves regular twisting and rinsing the hair instead of shampooing. The use of a wax or moisturizing gel is also recommended to maintain the style and control any stray hairs, ensuring the locks remain neat and defined.
Julius Caesar’s Timeless Face-Framing Crop
Julius Caesar’s textured crop is a hairstyle that is both instantly recognizable and remarkably flattering, enjoying a resurgence in popularity in recent years. The defining characteristic of this cut is its uniform length across the entire head, which creates a gentle and approachable appearance that softens facial features. Master barber Alex Glover notes that the edges of this cut should possess a natural texture rather than being overly neat, a detail that requires careful execution by a barber to avoid an overly severe finish.
This hairstyle is particularly well-suited for individuals with thinner hair, as it can create the illusion of greater thickness and volume. To further enhance this effect during styling, allowing the hair to air dry naturally after showering is recommended. Following this, a light-hold product such as a styling cream, gum, or wax can be applied to provide a subtle definition without weighing the hair down. While the style itself is classic, it is advised to avoid pairing it with a toga for modern interpretations.
Cillian Murphy’s Disconnected Undercut
A truly impactful haircut can define a man, and at times, an entire era. Cillian Murphy’s portrayal of Thomas Shelby in the critically acclaimed series Peaky Blinders has reignited interest in early 20th-century aesthetics, with the show’s grooming choices playing a significant role. The popularity of traditional barbershops has seen a resurgence, with classic styles becoming highly sought after.
The disconnected undercut, characterized by its significant length on top and tightly cropped or skin-faded sides, has emerged as a prominent trend. Liam Campbell, a senior barber at Nomad in Shoreditch, recommends this style for its ability to create definition and a raw edge. The contrast between the longer, styled top and the severely short sides offers a bold and modern take on a classic haircut. While often paired with a flat cap in the show’s historical context, the haircut itself stands as a strong statement piece.
Elvis Presley’s Textured Pompadour
The pompadour, a hairstyle that has been a staple for over a decade, remains one of the most stylish grooming choices available. However, to avoid appearing dated, it is crucial to opt for a modern interpretation of Elvis Presley’s iconic look. As stylist Alan Jones points out, the contemporary pompadour emphasizes texture and a more natural flow, moving away from overly slicked-back styles.
This style is particularly well-suited for individuals with thick hair that possesses a natural wave. Modern updates include a shorter taper on the neckline and softer, scissored texture on the top. Styling begins with applying a base product, such as a cream, to damp hair before shaping the quiff. Rough drying with fingers helps to set the hair in place, followed by a small amount of fiber product for hold. For those whose pompadours tend to fall flat, a strong-hold hairspray can be used to maintain its structure throughout the day.
Will Smith’s High-Top Fade
The 1980s marked the golden age of hip-hop, and the high-top fade emerged as a defining hairstyle of this vibrant cultural movement. Worn by prominent artists like Big Daddy Kane, Kid ‘n Play, and Will Smith, this style symbolized the genre’s creativity and bold aesthetic. Achieving a precise high-top fade requires the expertise of a skilled barber specializing in afro hair.
Richard Tucker, an afro hair specialist at Ruffians Barbers, describes the high-top fade as an art form that barbers strive to perfect, offering customers a high degree of precision. This cut is exceptionally effective in managing thick, curly hair, providing both structure and style. However, regular maintenance is essential, with barbershop visits every couple of weeks recommended to keep the lines sharp and the shape intact. Styling involves using a bristle brush to tame flyaway hairs, followed by a pomade to achieve a healthy sheen. For full high-top variations, hairspray and an afro comb are useful for shaping and securing the hair in place.
Liam Gallagher’s Brit Pop Mop
The 1990s in Britain were a culturally rich period, marked by the rise of Brit Pop, vibrant rave scenes, and distinctive fashion. Amidst the prevalence of curtain haircuts and bowl cuts, Oasis frontman Liam Gallagher’s messy, textured mop stood out as the ultimate style statement of the era. Liam Campbell of Nomad barbershop describes Gallagher as arguably the coolest man in nineties Britain, with his hair perfectly reflecting his youthful rock ‘n’ roll attitude.
Recreating this look often requires clear photographic references for a barber, as the fringe and sideburns can vary in their placement depending on individual hair types. An experienced barber will be able to adapt the style to suit the wearer. The styling itself is relatively straightforward, requiring texturizing products and a confident, nonchalant attitude to maintain its signature effortless cool.
George V’s Enduring Slick Side-Parting
In contemporary men’s grooming, trends extend beyond the hair on top of the head, with the resurgence of well-groomed facial hair. King George V exemplified a timeless approach to styling, boasting a well-maintained side-parting that remains relevant across decades. Alan Jones, from Alan Jones Men’s Grooming, notes that the King’s style would be perfectly at home in any era.
The versatility of the side-parting lies in its adaptability to various hair lengths, making it an excellent choice for maintaining a polished look between haircuts. Jones suggests tapering the back and sides for a more modern interpretation. Styling can be achieved with a comb to create a sharp parting, followed by a wax or pomade for a slick finish, or a matte paste or clay for a more natural appearance. For unruly hair, hairspray can be used to set the parting securely. To complement the refined hairstyle, a beard oil can condition facial hair, while moustache wax can add definition to the upper lip, creating a regal and impeccably groomed ensemble.
